During the Elizabethan-Jacobean period the mode of fashion was influenced by Spain, rather than Germany as it had been in the previous period. Though the silhouette was still distorted, the stress had changed from great width to a taller, vertical line with rounded, exaggerated extensions down the body.

Tight slashing was still prevalent, though it was being replaced by a tight paning on sleeves, bodices and doublets. Fabrics were stiffened and decorated with metallic embroidery or jewelry. Dark colours were popular in rich silks and velvets, effectively displaying the jewels of the wearer.